Dublin, first glances

Ah, Ireland.

My love affair with Ireland as a country stems back to my childhood, when my world revolved around a steadfast ambition to become a world-class writer. The rich and mysterious nature of Celtic mythology inspired my insatiable imagination to no end; the dark yet beautiful tales of trickery and magic were a welcome change for a child fast outgrowing the likes of Disney. As I continued to write and learn, Ireland morphed from a rural, mythical place into a powerful emotional source of motivation and insight. Without setting foot within the place, it was within Irish culture that I cultivated my first big ideas; funny now that I come back to it with my newest career dream.

In college, I updated my idyllic perception of Ireland by taking an Irish literature course that gave me a more contemporary look at this country as it stands now. I’m glad I did. This city is as many of its famed poets, writers, and lyricists have spoken of—oh yes, Dublin is a dirty, dreamy place. At the moment, it reminds me of frumpy, London with a quirkier, angrier attitude and a shorter stature. There are lines of short, stone buildings with chimneys with five or seven stout smokestacks that spit into the sky and trash that punctuates the sidewalks and gutters. You pass pubs, ethnic restaurants, and foreclosure signs while going from point A to B here; Irish is written on every sign, and if that wasn’t purist enough, folks have taken the courtesy to be the voice of Ireland on many of their high, iconic stone walls.

Yet for all its outward grittiness, there’s creativity in this town that’s undeniable. Whether it’s from a young population shortchanged on the economic front or maybe something intrinsic buried in Irish blood I don’t know, but there’s something about Dublin that pulses beneath the grime of city—and tells you, you’re in for a fantastic story. Yes, this experience will prove to be much different than Sweden. Aside from being on a stern career mission, this is an entirely different place.

My housing will definitely be different. Annika’s flat afforded me many amazing luxuries, aside from the beautiful home; I really really miss her. This time, I will be staying in a dirt-cheap two-bedroom flat in the middle of Dublin 8, with three Brazilian girls and two Mexican girls, where space is tight but the atmosphere is warm. At first, I was really reluctant; I have less space here than even my college dorms. But the girls come and go (English school), so between the exotic food and not paying for the DART (expensive!), I think living here will be like living in a big Latina family.

But—just in case I didn’t want to stay with the crowd—I did spend much of my time this weekend looking for outlets. Behold my list of discoveries:

 

Closest Grocery Store: 1 block east

Closest Wine/Liquor Store/Dry Cleaner Combo: across the street

Closest Closest Bus Station: 3 blocks east

Closest Dublin Bike Station: 8 blocks east in Christchurch (lame)

Closest Catholic Church: St. James’ Church, 3 blocks east

Closest Café Worth My Time: Cafe Noto, 8 blocks east

Closest Museum: Irish Museum of Modern Art, 3 blocks west, 1 block north

Closest Park: Phoenix Park, 1 km northwest

Closest Bar: The Guinness Brewery (behind the house)

In any case, I'm excited. The next three months are going to prove very busy for me. Tomorrow, I start work at one of the revolutionary science museums in the world, and begin construction on what I hope will not only be a wholesome graduate thesis, but a credo for the rest of my career. In addition to the work I’ll have at the Science Gallery, I’ll have written reports and essays for Gothenburg University, and contributions to Pacific Science Center as they prepare for their first annual Science Festival this summer (yet another side project...oy). Combine that with my goal to see Galway and other Irish communities, I have a feeling I will be much busier in the next three months than nine months in Sweden ever made me.

Well, we'll find out. :) 

Massive Update: Summer.

I have to tell you, I really thought I left this blog in a more concrete place than where I did. Apparently, this blog post will be one of the biggest updates I’ve ever had to give—but hey, at least it’s given, right? ;)

I had an exhausting but rich summer season back in my hometown. My job as a Lead Teacher for Pacific Science Center's summer camps—solar cookers and Legos and submarines, oh my!—was a feat that drained me often of patience and energy, usually simultaneously. Kauai was also beautiful and a fantastic way to get over jet lag with the rest of the family (what better way to do it than be exactly 12 hours different?). Living in South Park/Georgetown was positively delightful: such an underrated community, rustic and humble and crazy (taco trucks, Vietnamese and Mexican neighbors, exiled Seattle artists, women walking wolves, an indoor volleyball court amiable toward graffiti, and a beautiful little sherbet green house...)

All in all, it was a well-deserved break. Here are some highlights:

•         My baby brother’s graduation and consequent grandparent visit
•         Snorkeling with the octopi in the clear, clear ocean of Kauai
•         Weekend morning markets in Georgetown and Ballard, with borrowed glasses and amiable pals
•         Pulling back the dusty tarp on my beautiful red scooter
•         Meeting kids and hating kids and dismissing kids and loving kids
•         Blissful Whidbey and dancing in our seats in the setting sun
•         Waiting on the curb of 201 Elliot Street for a maroon Nissan Maxima
•         Seeing an old friend join the rest of the cool kids in Seattle
•         My first viewing of Pulp Fiction in the cool night air
•         Port Angeles dreams and Kingston realities
•         Honing my car make-up skills and morning coffee technique
•         Realizing the full compassion of my parents over sushi
•         Whole Foods raids and cart stealing 
•         Meeting David Flopster Wallace and getting margaritas
•         Tandoozy and the smell of Theo’s
•         Seeing my Swedish and Seattle life merge at the Crumpet Shop
•         Painting dragons and dancing in the kitchen
•         Appreciating science at New York’s American Museum of Natural History
•         Cocktails at Louis and a late-night pizzeria bathroom run
•         Sunshine and moonlight cigs on the stoop of South Director

And now, ladies and gentlemen: Ireland.

And so, my first Swedish adventure ends...

Pity about it, too. I must say, as the days inched (centimetered?) closer to my departure date, I found myself getting more and more sad. Moving to Sweden has been a profound experience, and honestly, looking back on it, it was completely worth leaving my job, selling everything I owned, and saying goodbye to my beloved Pacific Northwest for 9 months.

It's funny thing, dealing with the unknown. While there are types of uncertainty that are easier to deal with, there are some that really demand you sit down with them and have a dialogue. Having faced some situations this year that would have originally sent me panicking, I come back to the States empowered. I think I've reconciled with some of my external stressors, and that's opened up everything.

If you asked me what living in Sweden was like, I'd say it was a lesson in vowels and street names; fika and glögg; museums and minimalism. I met individuals who exemplified the Swedish stereotype, and those who certainly didn't. The place is undeniably beautiful and astoundingly accommodating. I'd say the rumors are true: Swedes are a reserved bunch---quietly brilliant and typically open-minded, but horrible at walking through crowds. If you ever find yourself going to Scandinavia, I'd say bring lots of whiskey, a flask of maple syrup, and a honest heart.
Who knows, you may visit a bunker or two...

Well, anyway, I am ecstatic about returning. It definitely doesn't feel like goodbye. But until then, I've got a job at the Pacific Science Center that will restock my bank account, a family who's excited about my little brother's high school graduation, my first trip to Hawaii, and many glorious reunions over beers waiting for me. And, of course, Ireland.

Off to the next adventure.

Yay! Cultural juxtapositions!

With the exhibition in full swing, I thought I'd take a little time to have a well-deserved break. Months ago, Katarina and Magnus told me that they'd be going to their summer cottage with the kids in Gränna. So, this weekend, I jumped a train and headed for Swedish countryside to say my goodbyes for a little while...

...and it was one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. There's no wonder why Swedish politics are so concerned about 'keeping Sweden Swedish'---the quaintness and untouched beauty of the rural countryside really is breathtakingly special. 

And then, once jumping the train back to Gothenburg, I went to this:

Andralånggatan Fest: a massive open-air street festival with electronica DJs, secondhand couches, plastic bags of beer and just the smallest hint of weed. The place was filled with hipsters, but I managed to hang out with the cool kids. ;)

What a weekend of contrast.

Gender Matters has opened!

(Phew).

Here are some picture highlights from the exhibition. I...I have to go sit down. 

Bright and Early: giving the museum staff an overview of the  exhibit
and what we had planned for the 6 days it was open to the public.

One of the highlights of the exhibition, a giant Bull elephant (the prized possession of
the natural history museum) gendered into female. This caused much controversy within
this old museum; I thought it was an awesome display of how easy it is for man
to put our values on animals. Way to go Sondra and Anna; they sewed that tutu in a single day! 

An installation theme that permeated all three museums.
Objects were highlighted for the gender roles they did or did not discuss.

The origami paper boat making station. Practice writing letters and crafts like male
sailors on board ships and hang them on a collaborate collage wall!
Beautiful concept designed my friend Stacey and her hard-working design team.

Another installation in the City Museum: a corset, made to symbolize all the unvoiced efforts
of female factory workers in an exhibition that highlights the feats of men.
This was amazing to see come together in the work rooms we had in the school.

One serious highlight: having Gabby be the first person in the city to
see Gender Matters its entirety. Here we are in the "Human Case" in the Natural History Museum,
an attempt to bring humans back to natural history museums.

In addition to the exhibition, the Steering Group was also responsible for throwing
the Gender Matters opening party, of which we had over 150 people!
All the food, decorations, and entertainment were student sourced and basically free. :)

My Swedish friend Daniel and I dressed up at the opening party as
cross-dressing sailors. Daniel will be coming to my home turf for his internship
at the Nordic Museum in Seattle.

This is another installation like the boat, but the picture behind it has a larger story.
This installation highlights the 'nuclear family' architecture of this 100-year-old exhibit;
to highlight the bias in this, 40 girls from the class and 1 male posed as 'seals' off the shore of
Gothenburg---illustrating what a true seal family would look like!
(Yes I'm in there)

The bilingual self-tour pamphlets my friend Linna and I produced for the Natural History Museum,
highlighting the "sex lives" and roles of both the marine and bird world.

My project: A cumulative installation of butterfly drawings at the Natural History Museum,
in which children drew butterflies and then gendered them, the results of which were
hung for the public for display and personal analysis.

The point was that what you think of gendered colors may not be to others;
it was also designed to maximize children's voice in an exhibition very
much focused on individuality and self-expression.